Monday, December 31, 2018

Guy Savoy, Paris (***)

This Guy Savoy's flagship Parisian restaurant dates back to 1980. Priorly being near the Arc de Triomph until 2015 when it moved to its current location in the Monnaie de Paris, the one of 2 locations in France where the national mint is located. The restaurant is quite vast with different connected rooms, 5 of them, all overlooking the river Seine from the left bank though high windows.

Guy Savoy gained two Michelin stars in 1985 and a third followed in 2002. There is a second flagship restaurant with his name in Las Vegas (2 Michelin stars) and 3 more in Paris, Le Chiberta, Les bouquinistes and Atelier maitre Albert. After completing his 3 years long apprenticeship in the Troisgros brothers he opened his own restaurant in New York before moving to Paris. Besides the most coveted accolade, the 3 Michelin stars, the restaurant has also been featured in the Top50 restaurants in the world, as also gained the 1st place in La Liste 2019. La liste takes into account and summarizes rankings and reviews from many guides, locals or not, or websites in one rank. For 2019, Guy Savoy and Le Bernardin took the first place followed by Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee.

photo from guy

photo from guy

The restaurant is located on the second floor with an entrance inside the Monnaie building. All 5 rooms have high ceiling with dark grey wooden walls, grey carpets and charcoal chairs with white fireplaces and perfectly ironed white tablecloths. Despite the dark colours all rooms have natural light from the huge windows. The characteristic Guy Savoy presentation dishes on the other hand are so colourful in contrary to the black and white interior. 

There is a huge wine list, presented in a giant black book with rare vintages of grand cru wines. There even a Chateau d Yquem from 1899. We opted for a glass of Crozes-Hermitage red wine from Domaine Des Hauts Chassis which was pretty good, at 15 euros per glass. 

We started with bread, only of one kind, which was rather dry and overcooked. No butter was offered alongside. Three amuse bouches followed, a foie gras sandwhich, potato scales tart with parsnip cream and last, mushroom, chestnut and milk veloute. All were pretty good. 

Artichoke soup with black truffle, layered mushroom brioche
This is the signature dish of Guy Savoy and one that our waiter recommended to try. The soup consists of artichokes, chicken stock to enhance the flavor, Parmesan cheese and black truffle shavings accompanied by a round layered mushroom brioche and truffle butter which had the texture of chantilly cream. A very good dish with earthy intense flavors and great quality black truffle. After we finished our brioche the waiter came up with a much appreciated additional one saying ''Why not?''. 

Red mullet 'swimming in the sea'.

Another classic dish of Guy Savoy. Two whole roasted big sized red mullets deboned, served with sauteed spinach, squid and mushrooms, the red mullet jus bound with its liver. The mullet was of great quality, skillfully prepared and cooked on time, retaining its texture. The rich liver sauce elevated the dish giving sharpness. 

Five week aged beef paleron and marbled 'basse cote' Wagyu chuck with a seasonal salad
Seared beef shoulder and Wagyu with confit vegetables and a seasonal salad with beef jus vinaigrette, fried spring onions and beef paleron carpaccio. The beef was perfectly cooked in both preparations, the salad was amazing with nice crunchy textures.

Quince and walnuts, maple jus and quince vinegar. walnuts base biscuit, quince in different preparations. Nicely combined, quite refreshing with earthy aromas and a high level of refinement. 

Granny Smith apple with sweet chestnut. Small diced apple with chestnut cream, slices of the fruit and apple shaped cream. 

After dessert we were offered a very interesting pear and pumpkin seeds cream with tea sorbet. There is also a mignardises trolley with riz au lait, macarons, small pastries and fruits. Before leaving while we were waiting for our coats, they offered us a round brioche-croissant with rhubarb jam to take away. A very nice gesture. 

As you might expect the service is flawless, professional, friendly and attentive with huge attention to detail. Monsieur Guy Savoy himself came in the salle to great us and every other guest. I would only suggest that you try to book well in advance.